postcard #1: PH series (Baler, Aurora) ✿

The Postcard series is an attempt to encapsulate all of my feelings regarding a trip. It is what I want to send to my future self of all the things I want to remember, the things I have learned and the things that captured my attention in that time and place.

Last December, I went on the trip back to my home country of the Philippines. Looking back on it feels like a faraway dream, especially since the pandemic stretched time dramatically. I had failed to log my fresh feelings during this trip but I had written some musings here and there so I am glad. I just want to have something written as a token for this trip that I had waited for three long years. It’s always fun to have these words written as I know I will have fermented feelings to always come back to so nothing feels lost.

I will divide this trip into parts as I had visited multiple places in PH and I aim to process and take in all of it in it’s singularity.

Baler has always been home to me. Every summer we go to Aurora’s beaches and always we visit Sabang beach because of its tall waves and comforting vibe. So it feels good to be back and living in Canada where lakes are called beaches and the water is cold all year long, I had been longing to smell the sea and bask on warm waves.

The Trip On the Way

We woke up early only to be delayed as per usual. Whether we like it or not being late has been imprinted in the Filipino culture. We were meant to be on the rode before sunrise but we had managed to buy pandesal before all things lined up.

This trip is meant to bond with my family from both of my parents side. My mom has 9 siblings while my dad has 7 so our family is BIG. We are in 2 cars and 2 vans, all leaving separately. I was sitting with my grandparents on my dad’s side. I missed my lola so much and it feels like home to lean on her shoulders and feel the saggy fat on her arms, like all grandma’s have. My grandpa doesn’t speak much but I had remembered giving him some candy along with my lola (nanay) who has been vomiting due to the zigzag roads.

The way was familiar but not quite. I remember it being bumpy but the roads had now been cemented which made the way narrower therefore much harder to traverse. There was this one place where we got stuck for 10 mins as there were blocks and just some poor road engineering. We and the car can feel the difficulty of going up the mountains. Everything is more greener or perhaps I was just not used to see this much green as it was winter when we left Canada. Tropical forests holds a different kind of magic, the variety of trees and the different shades of its viridescent. In a flash it all looks like a dream.

The Balete Millenium Tree

I had been to this tree for an insufferable amount of time that going back has not excite me in any way. It was still the same tree although recognizably thicker in trunk, it has grown along with its surrounding. Perhaps it was capitalism that led to its development as there are now stores and small souvenir shops on one corner, a washroom you have to pay to use and a garden where a children’s train can pass by for a quick tour. I had bought a cute wallet as a memento while my younger cousins had rode the train and they seemed very happy about it.

There were also dogs and some places where I think it would be perfect for a photo shoot with all of its faded quality. We also bought a coconut drink and although we haven’t tried it, the papayas seem really tasty ! I also saw the longest banana bunch I had seen, it was a sight to behold indeed.

Museo de Baler (the surroundings)

It was actually my first time to explore the surroundings of Museo de Baler and it has so much more to offer. There was another museum we decided not to see and like the last time, we still have not gone inside Museo de Baler. It probably holds Manuel L. Quezon and Doña Aurora memorabilia but I honestly have no clue what is inside that building. I guess I will have to find out once I come back, I will have to go on this museum without any excuses.

There was a park around it that has historical murals and photographs. I love art and I’m so glad to have seen all of it as it was such a nice touch to the place. As always there were a lot of small vendors where they sell everything from food to plants and souvenirs. I bought some street foods, their siomai and fishballs were god tier. I love tuhog-tuhog so much. My uncle bought all of the plants a kid was selling so he would be done for his days work. On the other side is more greenery and a whole playground. We waited for my cousins to be done playing on the swings shaded by trees and a concrete slide that could burn ones buttocks due to the heat. It was such a relaxing place where you can surely get some fresh air and peace of mind.

Sabang Beach

My much awaited destination. I had been longing to be in the presence of the sea, the sands, the tall waves and the soaring sun. It was all what I had wanted. The smell of the salty sea was so welcoming and the sounds of the crashing waves is reeling me in. We arrived at around noon and decided to eat lunch before we swim. My mom has booked three houses near the beach as we will be staying for the night. The place we had had an indoor pool too and it was cheap and convenient. We could be loud and stay up all night unlike the luxurious hotel beside us where it’s a whole condo which entails less freedom. It wasn’t until an hour later that we decided to jump on the waves. There wasn’t a lot of people and the waves are calmer than usual. We made sandcastles with the kids and did all the beach related things. We playfully buried them in the sand as they did with me and the sand feels cool on my skin as it envelopes me into an embrace. I liked it as I had forgotten this feeling for a moment.

My cousins and I swam the entire day to the point that our parents scolded us to get out of the water. Since my younger cousins opted for the pool, us being the older ones decided to stay with the sea. I had missed every feeling associated with being in the ocean. The sands on my bikini, the salty smell of the water on my hair, accidentally tasting some of the ocean water and getting my eyes stung from being in the water for too long. These were some of the small pleasures I will cherish as long as I can hold onto it. The day was wrapped by a beautiful sunset that I wasn’t able to document as I was completely detached from my non-waterproof phone and just had every intention to stay in the moment with the sea and with my family.

That night we had a barbecue and it looked like we had an ihaw-ihaw store and my young cousins were the ones handling it, haha. We had hotdogs and barbecues as appetizers and had sopas and fish for dinner. There were dogs and cats that are possibly the hotel owners pet. Some are strays. After eating we decided to walk along the ocean but there were no lights and the lifeguard said it’s prohibited to do so.

“Taon taon may kinukuhang buhay ang dagat.”

– Kuyang Lifeguard [non-verbatim]

So I just opted to bond with my cousins from both sides. They are both so different in ways that my cousins from my mom’s side are chaotic good. They would literally raise their hands to speak and the way they tease each others are done in a polite manner, if that makes sense haha. My cousins from my dad’s side are chaotic evil to the point that there are actual fist fights, biting, shouting – the whole deal. I find both of them endearing these way but I admit that I am much closer to my cousins from my father’s side as I grew up with them. Although this trip has made me bond with my cousins from my mom’s side as I slept at the same house with them. Truthfully the aim of this trip was successful as I feel more connected to my family more than ever, I miss them more everyday. I wish to spend more time with them in the future.

Sunrise. My closest cousin literally woke me up at 6AM just to watch the sunset but it did not came until much later. So we just walked by the seaside, along with the stray dogs and other people who are also anticipating the sunrise. It was such a wonderful feeling to just be there with the people I value, among the waves waiting for the sign of the day to officially come in. The waves are much calmer and we folded our pants to dip into the sea. The feeling of the sand and sea foam had furthered woke me up from whatever slumber I was in. We had mini photoshoots, mostly me taking pictures of my cousin as I am not much of a camera person. I prefer to be behind the scene plus I am a thorough believer that me being in the way of nature will tarnish its beauty. I just like to appreciate the raw unfiltered sights of nature without me being on it.

There was a huge tree in the shore that made the scenery more beautiful. Finally the sun has risen and it made a bright light that engulfed the entire sky. It was breathtaking. We played around before we ate breakfast and went for another swim. This time the waves are much stronger that it had attracted the surfers. One of my cousin even signed up to try it and my parents were persuading me to go but I was too lazy. I just want to be with the sea for the last time, without exerting any of my energy. Just there, vibing is what I want. My younger cousins were in the pool and I had taught some of them to swim but to my failure they did not learn but we still had fun trying and that’s what matters. I am not being biased but I think the sunsets/rise in the Philippines looks prettier, more streaks of colours. It will always be home to me.

Ditumabo Mother Falls

I also had been into this location before. In conclusion, I had been to all of these places before but that was 3 years ago. There were noticeable changes. Just like from the Balete Millenium Tree, this place has also been touched by capitalism and perhaps for good reason this time? You now have to pay for an entrance fee unlike before where you just enter and traverse your own trail by yourself. Perhaps it was a government decision for safety purposes to have tour guides with you. There is also a defined trail now, with safety ropes within the clashing river. It was a relatively difficult trail and you will get wet so make sure to bring an extra change of clothes. I think it took about an hour from my memory to reach the falls, which also changed. Since a rock fell from the mountains, a part of it was closed off so you can no longer jump from the cliff that used to be there. The water, however was still freezing cold so I refused to dip in it. My younger cousins on my father’s side were the only one who bathed as I had mentioned they are chaotic insane, haha.

The trek back was familiar and afterwards we ate at the little store by the end of the trail. They were selling ihaw-ihaw and their kwek kwek and okoy was miraculous, ah I missed it. After changing into dry clothes, which you also have to pay for the utilities, I think it was 5-10php, we went for the road. I was in the van with my cousins from my mother’s side but my closest cousin from my father’s side accompanied me. It was a smooth way home and we just more or less slept along the way. I was sightseeing for the most part as it will be long ’til I see endless rice fields and my home.

A Love Letter to Baler

There’s something comforting about revisiting the same places after a long time. A lot has changed but in a way it’s still the same. Being with the sea, hugging a millennium balete tree, being in peace with nature and watching the sun as it rises and falls all while bonding with my family. All of these Baler had given me and I would forever be grateful for it. That is why Baler will always be my comfort, my home, the very place where I grew up each summer. I will always hold Baler close to my heart and it has a special mark on me. Baler, until we meet again….thank you for the constant warm embrace. I had taken it with me on this freezing country. I love you.

Places we missed and aim to visit once we go back:

  • Baler Hanging Bridge
  • Museo de Baler (inside)
  • Lighthouse Baler, Aurora
  • Dicasalarin Cove
  • Diguisit Beach
  • Ermita Hill
  • Aniao Islet
  • Cemento Beach
  • Doña Aurora Aragon-Quezon House
  • Caunayan Falls
  • Costa Pacifica
  • Dicasalarin Bay
  • Baler Beach
  • Cape Encanto
  • Sea Grace Villa
  • Miss Jones Cove
  • Balud Camp

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